Tuesday, November 26, 2013

Travelogue-New Orleans (Day 2-French Quarter)

I start my day, as I do practically everyday while I was in NO, by making way down Canal either by foot or by streetcar


The streetcar is symmetrical front to back with controls at both ends so it does not need to be turned around.


When it comes to the end of the line, they cover one fare box, move the seatbacks, then uncover the other fare box.  Now its ready to go back the same way it came.


The Algiers Ferry was already running so I hopped on board for the free ride.  Currently, the crossing is free both ways.  Ive read that they may begin to charge a fee to help fund and keep the ferry running.  Operating hours last until approximately after 6pm on weekdays and just after 8 pm on Fridays and weekends.


Its a short ride across the Mississippi, no more than 10 minutes.  Great views of the skyline from Algiers Point.  I dont bother to disembark.  I sit tight and awaight the ride back to continue my preplanned itenerary for the day.


Once ashore, a quick hop onto the Riverfront streetcar up to Ursuline to explore the French Market.  There are two distinct sections of the market.


At this, the eastern, end a flea market occupies the stalls.  Craftmakers, artisans, retailers, etc. can rent space to sell their wares.  There is a wide range of goods from souvenirs to handmade items to food such as gator on a stick and gator jerky.


Part of the space is given up to food counters that serve up local fare as well as standard american fare. 


On one side, most of the market runs along Decatur.  Decatur merges and diverges from North Peters St as it runs from Canal toward the east


The other portion of the market has more permanent residents with solid walls and proper doorways and entrances.  Many of the shops sell souvenirs and that sourthern confection, the praline.  At the far end is Cage Du Monde.

Cafe Du Monde is famed for its cafe au lait and beignets.  Coffee and donuts.  The coffee is laced with chicory.  The beignets are french donuts showered with ungodly amounts of powered sugar.


The coffee can be had black but I prefer it with milk a la cafe au lait.  A standard order of beignets.  Lastly, a cup of iced coffee to help fuel me as I would continue my walk later.  Beignets are fried dough like regular donuts.  The samller of the three was lighter and airier and much more to my liking.  The other two were denser and heartier and provided more exercise to the jaw muscles.


Ah the remnants of my snack.  The copious amounts of left over sugar lie on the plate.  I shook off as much as I could before digging in.  There are other places to get coffee and donuts of this sort or of the more usual kind.  But, this places is open 24 hours to sate your craving no matter what time of day.


Across the way is Jackson Square and St Louis Cathedral just beyond its far gate.  Horse/mule drawn carriages line the Decatur side of the square.  These converyances provide a romantic interlude as the day slips away and the evening splendor illuminates the area.



Named after President Andrew Jackson, the guy on the $20 bill, a statue of him upon his steed stands proudly in the middle of it all.


Back at the entrance and croos the street on Decatur, a tree has been erected for the Christmas season.  Lights adorn the ornamental display and alight when the dusk breaks.


A few blocks down from the square and Cafe Du Monde is another local point of interest.  Central Grocery is an italian food store that sells a sandwich of its own creation, the muffuletta


The muffuletta is a round sandwich of italian meats, swiss cheese, and olive salad.  Available only in two sizes, half and whole, and cut into quarters.  It is a good sandwich if you like the meats within and the olive salad is good.  I was not blown away by it myself.  Having been weighed down by some beignets, I was only able to finish a quarter while the remainder was left for later.

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At many of the candy and souvenir shops, pralines are abundant.  Of the candy shops, they all proclaim the freshness as they are made on site and proudly display the cooling confections.  Made from nuts and sugar syrup, they are very sweet.


To walk off the muffuletta and the praline samples, I stroll through the quarter to observe the local architecture.  Balconies are a staple of the buildings in this area.  During Mardi Gras, they provide a great vantage point to observe all the goings on at street level while being at a safe distance from the hordes of humanity who can become unruly.


Plus, on a nice warm evening they provide a great place to dine al fresco while taking in the warmth and fresh air.  Some of the restaurants take advantage of this and have seating and tables on the balcony.


Along with restaurants, bars, and strip clubs, other shops line many of the streets around Bourbon.  Antiques, jewelry, and crafts can be found on Dauphine and Royal which run parallel to Bourbon.