Germany, Day 1 - Dusseldorf, first full day w/pictures

 Speaking of being up at 3am, Friday night became Saturday morning and the party didnt end until the some came up.  Alot of bars and restaurants were open late for the weekend funseekers.  The fast food chains dont close until 1am.  I could still hear the music from a club at 5am.  Today is forecast for some rain in Dus and I am going to explore this little corner of the city.  I had breakfast in the hotel.  Some meats and cheeses with individual liverwurst of 4 types.  Breads and cereal were on offer too.  Tea and most importantly coffee was on hand.  

Germany Arrival w/pictures

This started with the week of Thanksgiving selected for vacation with no particular plans in mind.  As time approached, I found some information on German Christmas markets.  Some locations had early opening dates that coincided with the time I would be off from work.  So, I began to plan the trip with some early research.  My itinerary changed as the info was updated up to the time I was in Dusseldorf. 

I flew out on Scandinavian Airlines, SAS, with a short layover in Copenhagen, CPH.  Legroom on the A330 was shorter than most, I felt.  I have short legs so take that into consideration.  Landed in Dusseldorf(Dus) early in the evening.  

Germany Departure

 I got up well before the sun and my alarm to make my way to the airport.  It was so early there was no one at the reception desk to check out with.  I got to the airport way too early.  About 3 hours before departure, I spent half of that waiting for the ticket counter to open for check in and bag drop.  Afterwhich, and you know th drill, security check.  Relieved that I didnt have to take off my shoes, I was pretty confident of getting through easily.  But, the full body scanner flagged something.  What could it be?  Turns out it may have been the metal buckles on my shoes.  So, I had to take them off anyway.  This would be a short hop on City Jet to Copenhagen  where I would transfer to my final flight 4.5 hours after landing.

After landing, I went to the SAS lounge.  I had purchased access through their app the day before for $28.  Previously it was $35 at time of booking.  Good thing I waited.  I opted for the lounge because I didnt want to exchange currency or put an extra charge on my card.  Plus, I didnt want to pay for the expensive airport fare.  The main lounge was pretty full but not crowded and I found a seat quickly.  Then on to food and drink.  Theres a cold salad bar and a crock of cauliflower soup with some bread nearby.  Sodas, beer, wine, and coffee were available as well as some cookies and potato chips to snack on.   The soup was more cream than anything else with a whisper of cauliflower.  I enjoyed 3.5 bowls over the span of time.  I chose the coucous salad, rice salad with chicken, bean salad, and a side of pesto.  The chicken in the rice salad was the only source of protein against the backdrop of hard rice.  I put it to good use by warming it in a bowl of soup.  The automated coffee dispenser did its job well while I paired its offerings with some assorted cookies.  I spent the time on my tablet while partaking of the kettle style chips.  Before leaving, I grabbed 3 tangerines for the flight.  All in all, even without having any alcohol, it was money well spend for access as it helped passed the time and filled my belly before the flight.

The walk to the E terminal was quite long from the lounge in C terminal.  Once I got to passport control, I was flagged for random security check.  Went through it without any issue, as I expected.  On to the plane where I was happy to find I had both seats to myself.  Unfortunately, for the second time, I was not sleepy throughout the flight.  What a waste of space.  On the initial leg, I could have used the room as the seats seem narrow with even less legroom than most other carriers.  I enjoyed the chicken with rigatoni that was served as the main meal.  They served a nice crusty roll which was similar to the ones I had throughout myt trip.  Didnt bother with the carrot and cabbage salad that was only dressed with olive oil.  The snack before landing was a warm smoked turkey smnoked gouda sandwich.  If I hadnt read the package, I thought it was ham and cheese.  The plane departed before sunset.  We chased it halfway around the world while falling behind in some places and catching up to it before getting to the west coast.  By the time we were at the gat around 6ish pm, the sun had set.  All that was left was to head home and have Thanksgiving dinner.

Thanks for sticking it out this long. In the days to come, I will repost with pictures.  In the weeks to come, I will add links for videoes.

Germany, Day 5 - Last full day

 Today will be my last full day in Germany.  Taking the opportunity to tie up loose ends and take it easy before flying back in the morning.  Went to the Rewe supermaket to get some eier liqour, specifically the Verpoorten brand.  Unlike the gluhwein, I was able to identify the brand sold at the Christmas market in several locations.  This is like an eggnog.  I got some later to taste it and to get the Verpoorten frosted glass as well.  20% alcohol by volume is what it says on the bottle.  There were other brands but they were not available for sampling.  Nearby I went to a place tha served saurbraten.  Beef rounds in a sour sauce with some sweetness from raisins.  Potato dumplings were bouncy and elastic like the ones I had on my last trip to Germany.  They are not boiled potatoes and pretty tasteless.   I always love the braised red cabbage.  The was dry in spite of the sauce.  The applesauce really saved the beef with added moisture and flavor.

After a quick nap, I strolled to the Schadowstrasse area.  There were still a few markets, though not open, I had not seen yet.  There was the small Ko Bogen market near a small pond with an inclined grassy area.  From there I went back to Schadow Markt.  I was here a few days ago in the rain.  Its a row of huts along a pedestrian walkway lined with retail shops.  I believe I also walked by the Marchen Market.  I think that rounds out all the markets in Dusseldorf.  I passed by Engelchen, sternchen, and Altstadt once again as they were in the stages of getting ready to open the next day.

Schwan is a restaurant near the ferris wheel.   I had seen a review on Youtube but I can remember the content provider.  I had the veal schnitzel jeager style,  with a brown mushroom sauce with fries.  Theres alot of  wurst places that include fries.  Theres standalone frie places that offer different toppings.  Oddly, these are my first pomme frite of the trip.  Like everything else, I thought the portion was large.  Although I finished the schnitzel, there was 1/3 fries left on the plate.  With some coin euro to burn, going to see what I can use them on before getting some sleep and early wakeup.   

Germany, Day 4 - Cologne(Koln)

 It took me alnt longer to get back to the hotel than expected.  More on that later if you are interested.  Today was a short term decision to head south to the city of Cologne.  Like Dus, many of their Xmas markets dont start up until the 23rd, as far as I knew.  I was doing some reasearch a few days and found 2 markets were to open by the 20th.  Since Ive already went to all the one I had scheduled, I pencilled this in. Using the regional express, it took jut over 20 minutes.  Koln hbf is right next to Koln cathedral.  But this is not one of the two.  I first went over to The Market of Angels adjacent to Neumarkt transport stop.  A small market with alot of the usual suspects.  A quick stroll and I was ready to head on to the second market.  It was only 1 stop away at Rudolf platz.  Like in Dus where there are many markets, some are within easy walking distance of each other.  Nicolas Village(Nicholasdorn) was roughly about the same size as the previous.  There was a dramatic archway at the eastern entrance.  Aside from the name, there was nothing really St Nicholas oriented themes.  I bypassed getting food at the first market.  Deciding between 2 options, deep fried fish or pork steak sandwich.  I figured the fish could be found elsewhere so I went with the pork.  It was grilled and serve with thinly slice stringy onions.  I declined the bbq sauce.  The pork was tastey and the onions added some sweetness although you really had to bite through them.  It was served on a small crusty roll.  Unfortunately, the portions are so large, I cant finish but a few bites of the roll.  The mushrooms I had before came with a half slice of white bread.  I dont think it was a good match to the mushrooms and sauce.

One of the attractions is the Chocolate museum on the river.  It so happens there is another market situated here that will start up in a few days.  You may also say, "It cant be true German Christmas Market without a ferris wheel!"  Got you covered there!  With time on my heands, I took the tour.   You are given a Lindt chocolate as you enter the exhibit.  From farming to packaging, they go through the whole process.  During the process of unmolding dark chocolate pieces, you can sample one.  Nearby a worker will dip a wafer into fountian of milk chocolate and offer it to you.  You can get osme personalized chocolates in 45 minutes if you are so inclined.  Lastly, when I left, I got 4 small pieces of different types.  Finally, theres a chocolate cafe and the obligitory souvenir store.  Not a big fan of chocolate and not aware of Lindt's product catalog, but there sure was a great variety of stuff.  Delay 1, waited over 30 minutes for a bus that never came, so I walked back to the Heumarkt before going back to the Angel's market.  I ordered the backfisch im brotchen mit ramoulade.  Deep fried battered fish in a roll with tartar(?) sauce.  Very filling but got salty toward the end.  Yeah, you can figure out what happened to the roll.  Last thing to do was to get the commemorative cup.  Kind of an odd white cup with an angel wearing clown makeup and a red nose.  The spires of the cathedral inside the rim with the year.

Went back to the main station and took a look at the main(?) festivl area out the massive church.  They were still setting up and nothing will be open until I hve left the country.  Delay 2, the subway platform heading back was immensely crowded.  An alternatie was to go one stop over and catch another subway line.  Unfortunately there was some technical difficulties and trains were prohibited from going to the terminus.  Ok, fight the crowds at the original station and tough it out to the main station.  Lastly, tired and weary, I got on the right train going the wrong way.  I had enough awareness to the next station was the wrong station.  Finally I made it back after a long day.  Oddly, the more I walk, the less I feel like eating.  I had the fish around 4pm and that was it.  Tommorrow will be a day of rest or just more leisurely, hopefully.

Germany, Day 3 - Oberhausen(?)/Essen

 Due to a later start yesterday, I have some time left on the 24 hour passes that I have.  I decided to put that time to use by going back to Ober.  Why?  Spatzle, thats why.  I remember seeing it yesterday and its kind of on the way to Essen.  It wouldnt have been a big detour just for noodles.  The mall was open upon my arrival but many of the vendors were still in the process of getting their shops ready.  At first I passed it and doubted my memory.  I remember they were making the spatzle fresh in the big extruder.  I had the noodles with cheese and topped with speck, bacon bits.  It was rich and it was heavy but it tasted of all the dairy elements.  The portion was quite large and I wasnt ready for the carb load.  With that sated, I went to the hbf to head over to Essen for their event.  

Kennedy platz is not far from the main station.  Along the way, there was a ferris wheel, though not sure if it was permanent.  Its not a seasonal market without this attraction it seems.  Down the lef then hang a left to get to the main area.  It is as expected from what I have seen over the last few days.  I got a krakuer sausage this time around.  Its a polish sausage with a very durable casing.  I added ketchup and mustard from the dispenser.  It made me feel like I was milking a ketchup and mutard cow for some reason.  At times, I bit into it and it would squeeze out the feeling but not puncture the skin.  It was a skin tube in a bread roll after a while.

Something kept calling to me in german.  I could not understand what it wanted but it drew me any way.  Before I realized it, his name was Charly.  Over time I started to understand that they have the best gluhwien.  Who am I to argue with a animated moose head touting great gluhwein?  Well, it tasted like every other one that I had.  I did get my souvenir frosted mug from Essen.  The one that was offered was from 2020.  Who knows how many times its been used.  I asked to trade.  The 2023 did not have a year designation but I preferred it anyway.  Another stroll around the area and it was back to Dus.

It was going to purposfully a early day.  Get back for dinner?and some sleep.  I wasnt in the mood for a full on sit down dinner.  McD, BK, and KFC are all nearby.  BK and KFC had some similar items.  Both offered chili cheese fries and fried cheese nuggets.  I got a salad at KFC an picked up the latter at the latter places.  BK was more like jalapeno poppers because of the peppers and won out over the rival item.  The salad?  Just trying to get my greens again.  Maybe one more before I leave? 

Germany, Day 2 - Oberhausen/Duisburg

 Edit:When I woke up this morning, the sun was out and I couldnt help but get out and see what things look like during the day without the doom and gloom.  Burg Platz huts were not open yet as its still early.  Early for the promenade a well but the working ships have already started their day.  a short stroll along Konigsalle and once around the structures around Cornelius Platz

Today is Sunday and its a day of rest.  Many shops are closed, which I knew but bit me in the but anyway.  I should have rested too as I try to cram too many things into the first few days.  Unexpectedly, I hit up 2 Christmas markets.  Maybe because its Sunday, one of the lines I could take directly to Oberhausen skipped both Dus HBF and Ober HBF.  I had to go through and transfer at the airport.  On this leg, we passed Duisburg.  Thats when it came to mnd that I could stop off here on my way back since they should be open until 9PM.  It was easy enough getting to Ober.  Transfering to the tram posed a bit of a problem.  There were automated machines to purchase tickets for the ride. The kiosks did not accept cash?!?!?  The STOAG office was closed and the tourist information office was closed too.  Sunday, right?  Ended up charging the ticket.  

Arrived at the Westfield Centro shopping mall where the event was being held.  The entrance is right off the exit from the elevated stop.  Near the entrance was a toboggan ride lined with snow.  Alot of kids, young and older, wre enjoying the the downhill run.

Back to the main point.  This was a huge, huge Christmas market situated outside of a mall.  Theres a cluster of huts near the tram station and at the other end of the mall at the Coca Cola food court.  In between was a long line of huts offering crafts, food, and drink.  It was incredible and the biggest market I have been to yet.  Being next to a mall helped when some rain would fall, light and drizzly at times.  Easily duck in for some shelter.  Opposite the food court and acrossthe water was a ferris wheel.  Two for twowhen it comes to Xmas market and ferris wheel.  Got a kinderpunch to facilitate my collection.  I like the frosted mugs because they seem sturdier.  Unlike Dus, this was fully open.  Greater variety of food to be had.  I had the salmon grilled over an open fire on cedar(?) boards.  I wanted both sauces since I wasnt sure.  I went wih the mustard dill sauce.  Dont know what the other tasted like but I think I choose the right one.  some lettuce in the sandwich too.  Before I left, had the sauteed mushooms with knoblach, garlic mayo sauce.  It was good but oh so heavy.  Garlic without the mayo would have been just fine.  I think I should have tried the speatzle or the pasta dressed in a wheel of cheeese.

After walking all day, it was nice to sit down on the ride back.    It wasnt long before I arrived at Duisburg.  The station at Dui was alot bigger than I thought it would be.  It also offered alot of services too.  The festival here was much closer to the central station and did not require additional transportation.  It runs from the station to city hall.  At this point, alot of what was on display wasnt much different from what Ive seen the last 2 days.  But it was enjoyable nontheless to be out and about with the locals in the evening.  Light rain here and there.  Enjoyed a bit of gluhwein in a hut out of the rain.  Tasted exactly the same as the one in Dus.  and still couldnt help inhaling some of it.  Got some sausage to accompany the wine in my belly.  I got a bratwurst.  Though I thought the white sausage was soemthing else before.  Its the krakuer that that was the darker colored sausage, like a keilbasa.  Will need to give that a go next time.  Is it superstition that the vendors always serve them pointing up?  Does the luck run out if the sandwich looks like a frowning face?

Germany, Day 1 - Dusseldorf, first full day

 I awoke at almost 8:30.  Mistakenly believing breakfast was from 7-9am, I hurrid to grab a little something.  Fears worsended as no one was around.  I inquired at the front desk about the hours.  Breakfast is available at a liesurely 8-11am.  Sat down to some cold cuts and croissant.  Other breads were available.  I skipped the cheese platter this morning.  Looked up some info on Cologne as now it may be a possiblity because two of the markets open on 11/20, well before I leave.  After downin a flat white and two cafe au laits,  I headed out and about but feared the forecast of rain.  The majority of the forecast during my stay is rain more often than not.  This morning started quite overcast but no precip yet.  Went by Burg Platz where the food and drink huts were open.  Generally they will open around 10 or 11 and close by 9pm.  Instead of taking transit to the Rhine tower, I walked along the banks of the river.  The river may seem calm but forcefully moves northward.  I started at the promenade lined with bars and restaurants.  Watching ferries and other ships ply the waters, some working hard against the current.  

I passed under the Rheinkniebrucke bridge and was close to the tower while in the neighborhood of Medien Hafen.  My camera is not broken and the lens is not warped.  These three buildings were designed by Frank Gehry. If you dont know, he was th architect behind the Walt Disney Concert Hall in southern California. I affectionately designate these buildings as the Three Stooges. Moe is the tallest and white structure. Larry is the third building while Curly is the shiny metal one in the middle. 10 euros to go up the tower at the lower level. The level above has a full service restaurant while theres a cafe and snack shop. Tables are place around the perimeter making it hard to get up to the window to take some shots. Maneuvered around seatted patrons to get shots of the river south, north to Old town, and some parts east.

Wasn't there long before I had already made 3 or 4 laps then out. Went over to Carls platz, a market in the middle of the city. Like a covered farmer's market we have in the states. Fortunate as some drops were beginning to fall. Walked through the butchers, florists, crafts people, producers, and fish mongers. There were bakeries, small restaurants, and bars. I went to a fish market to get some fish soup. Acreamy soup with several kinds of fish including salmon as well as shrimp. It was perfect to get me warmed up for the rest of the day as the weather would turn for the worse.

I perused the majority of the venues the night before.  Wanted to see if any of the markets a little to the east were available.  The rain and closure of these locations put a damper on the rest of the evening.  Went back to Cornelius platz and had some ribkuchen minus apple sauce. The potato pancake was good naked with crunchy bits around the edge with a nice soft center and full of potato flavor.  The ushrooms with garlic sauce smelled good too but I will partake at another location.  I could not rightly let the day go by without another mug.  This time it was the kid friendly kinderpunch, boiled sweet punch.  In a frosted mug instead of the painted ceramic mug.  I had seen several cups of the type that I purchased previously with slightly different graphics.  

Walked past a stand that had frikadelle, should I have ordered it?  With meat on my mind, I went back to the sausage vendor near the ferris wheel.  The pork roast simmering in onion juices looked and smelled good.  So far, they could do no wrong as I enjoyed the pork with onions on a roll.  Great amount of fat on the roast to give it a nice chew with each bite.  The sweeteness of the onions added to the flavor of the pork.  It was a hearty sandwich with several thick slices in the roll that abosorbed much of the juices.  Had to ditch the carbs to finish off the protein.

Germany 2023-Dusseldorf arrival

Landed in Dusseldorf early this evening.  For the bulk of the trip I plan on visiting several Christmas markets that spring up this time of year.  Cologne is the next major city on the Rhine south of Dus.  If Im lucky, I may get a chance to visit before I leave.  I initially took this time off looking for somewhere to go to.  It just so happened that the north western region of Germany.  Early research showed the earliest markets would open on my day of arrival.  The largest of which as Dus.  As the weeks went on updated info showed a later opening by 1 week.  Undeterred, I went ahead with my plans.  Upon surveying the city, I found alot of the set up for the markets were in place but not open forbusiness.  Not all however.  The base of the ferris wheel at Burg Platz was attend by Friday night revelers.  Near Konigsalle was in full swing with street food, bars, ie skating and a formof the stone on ice sport, curlng.  This definitely heralds what should be a great look at some German Christmas markets.

The hotel that I am staying at is in Altstadt, Old Town, and in the middle of the 7 markets in Dus.  I arrive on a Friday night and stumbled my way to the area.  With no internet at the time, I could not figure out what exit I would need to head to get to the hotel.  I gambled and exited a one door dwon from where I alighted from the subway from the main city train station.  As luckwould have it, this was exactly where I needed to be.  Im tellling you, this is a great start.   Evening had already fallen and it was dark.  The signs had the area lit up and I recognized the Burger King near the exit.  I turned around and there was my hotel.

Did some quick unpacking and headed out with an adventurous heart.  I went toward the Rathaus, City Hall.  It was disappointing to see the huts set up but shuttered and dark.   Nearby, I thought I might was well take sight of the ferris wheel.  It was like a light was shining open the area as the food and drink huts were open and bustling.  Grabbed a quick glance at the Rhine river and the pomenade alongside.  Peered down river to the Rhine Tower.  Went to get a white sausage in a roll.  The offring was the best first bite in Dus.  The pork roast looked good too and will porbably come back another time.  Currywurst ketchup on one end and mustard on the other.  The ketchup won out.  It was sweet with subtle curry flavors.  A good match to the fine mellow flavor of the weisswurst.  I liked the curry ketchup more than the mix of curry power with ketchup in Berlin/Hamburg.  Then I had my first gluwhein.  Mulled/spiced wine served hot.  While taking sips to warm myslf, I would inadvertently inhaled the wine and irritate the nostrils.  Pro tip: drink, but dont inhale.  I didnt find much to rave about.  Not being a wine drinker I didnt know if it was good.  And, it didnt feel strong unless it was in my nose.  Primarily, I wanted to keep the refundable mug as a sourvenir.  The first of many.  Though not very cold, at least to me, it also helped to warm my hands.

I strolled around the area and went east towards the luxury shopping area of Konigsalle.  I was happy to find the party had already started at the Corneliusplatz(Cornelius plaza).  There was a large bar area next to an ice skating rink and a curling(?) rink.  There were several more huts nourishing the attendees.  In addition to the sausage and drink huts, there were also liebkuchen(potato pancakes), mushrooms, roasted nuts, sweets and so on.  I sis not partake this night but theres still several nights ahead.  It all smelled so so good.  It was hard to walk away.  Between this market and another off to the east was a smaller one in between.  Sales huts were erected but dark.  I took this as a sign to head back and get some sleep.  I am writing this at 3-4am local.  So much for sleep